TaylorMade R9 Driver Review

by Rob on June 22, 2009

in Drivers, Featured Posts, Golf Clubs

TaylorMade-adidas Golf is a pioneer in golf club adjustability when it introduced its r7 quad driver in 2004. The r7 quad incorporated TaylorMade’s Movable Weight Technology(MWT), which gave golfers the ability to change the clubhead’s center of gravity to promote different ball flights.

2009 marks a dawn of a new era in golf club design and adjustability with the introduction of the R9 driver, that not only allows you to adjust the center of gravity, but also the face angle, loft, and lie angle of the R9 through its Flight Control Technology (FCT). The combination of the of Flight Control Technology and Movable Weight Technology promote up to 75 yards of side-to-side trajectory adjustability.

Look and Feel
At first glance the R9 driver features a new clubhead shape that is a blend of modern and classic designs in 422cc clubhead, that looks a lot like last year’s r7 limited driver and r7 SuperQuad, with its triangular shape, contoured corners, and similar graphics on the sole. In fact, TaylorMade calls it “New Classic” because it is at once modern and traditional, and should prove the test of time.

The R9 clubhead is constructed with the aid of TaylorMade’s Ultra-Thin Wall (UTW) technology, which allows the clubhead walls measuring as thin as 0.6 millimeters, with the saved weight redistributed to make the MWT and CG low as possible.

The Movable Weight Technology on the R9, features three weight ports (Center, Heel, and Toe) and cartidges. One 16-gram weight, and two 1-gram weights that can be adjusted using included torque wrench.

When you setup to the ball, R9’s smaller triangular shape took a little getting used to, espeically in this era of oversized 460cc clubheads. The R9 is equipped with a brand new shaft by Fujikura Golf-the 65-gram Fujikura Motore graphite shaft that is 45.25″ Long. The Fujikura Motore graphite shaft with High Intertia Tip (HIT) technology, is engineered with a new advanced tip construction that promotes faster ball speed. The added kick through the impact zone to promote increased ball speed and distance.

The Fujikura Motore shaft features a white graphic print on the top portion of the shaft, that uses a special “rotating graphic” that looks the same no matter what position the shaft is locked into. You’ll also notice that the grip is also graphic free, as to prevent distraction when the shaft is rotated.

As the shaft tapers down towards the hosel it begins to turn into a deep red and connects to the special metallic sleeve over the tip of the shaft.

Overall, its a really sharp looking driver that has a great throwback look to it packed with a lot of modern technology.

How Does FCT Work?
Up until now, if you wanted to adjust the face, loft, and lie angle, you needed to have that done by a club technician at your local golf shop. Or in the case of the PGA Tour Pro, you had this done at the TaylorMade Tour Trailer. This process requires a technician to immobilize the  clubhead and bend the hosel by hand.  Flight Control Technology eliminates the need of a tour technician to make adjustments quickly and accurately to the face, loft, and lie angles (Neutral-1 Flat Lie, Neutral Upright-1 Upright Lie, 1.0 Closed-.5 Flat Lie, 1.0 Closed-.5 Upright Lie, 2.0 Closed-Standard Lie, 1.0 Open-Flat Lie,1.0 Open-.5 Upright Lie, 2.0 Open-Standard Lie).

To adjust the face, loft, and lie angles, is quite simple process with the supplied R9 torque wrench, which provides 40 inch-pounds of torque. Just loosen the FCT bolt, remove the shaft from the head, rotate the sleeve and shaft into one of the eight clubhead positions and then locking the clubhead into position with the FCT bolt. The clubhead position adjustments were simple to make, like described, but I did find it a little tricky at times to line up the desired position with the clubhead. You’ll know that you have tightend the FCT bolt on tighly when you hear a loud snap.

When using the provided torque wrench, I was little nervous about loosening the FCT bolt, because I might lose it. But that’s not possible, since the FCT bolt cannot be removed from the clubhead completely. Using the same torque wrench you can also adjust the Movable weights on the R9, but these can be misplaced, so be careful where you do this.

I would really like for the torque wrench to be able to be stored in the clubhead cover, because having to fish it out of my golf bag anytime I want to makea an adjustment can be a bit of a hassle and easily misplaced.

Performance
What makes the R9 a fully adjustable driver is the combination of the FCT and MWT. As mentioned before, the R9 features three weight ports that can be adjusted. Put the 16-gram weight in the heel port to promote a draw, in the toe port to promote a fade, and in the middle for a neutral ball flight. By combining both the MWT and FCT you actually give yourself a ton of influence over the flight trajectory of your shots. According to TaylorMade testing, the R9 driver can promote up to 75 yards of side-to-side trajectory change, depending upon how the clubhead has been adjusted. If you take the eight positions of the FCT and multiply that with the three MWT configurations, you end up with twenty-four possible combinations.

In my tests, I didn’t notice too much of a variance in my shot trajectory to validate the 75 yards claim by TaylorMade, you’ll need to take their word for it. But what I did notice, is that shaping my shots was much easier to do with the combo of FCT and MWT. The only downside of so many options is that it took a lot of experimentation to find the right combination that worked best for my swing (neutral upright). Once, you have it dialed in your not going to want to change it.

In terms of the trajectory of my shots, I found that ball would fly off the face of the R9 and have a nice medium to low trajectory, similar to that of Tour player. Part of this can be attributed to triangular shape of the R9 that lowers the center of gravity lower in the face of the club that makes it easy to launch the ball.

The Inverted Cone Technology which has been used in other TaylorMade drivers, expands the area of the clubface that delivers high ball speed. The cone is actually milled directly onto the inner side of the clubface, which gives the R9 forgiveness on mis-hits, high MOI, and low CG. Now in terms of distance, the ball flies off the face of the R9 and travels a good distance, but not as far as I would like. I think part of it has to do with the lower trajectory ball flight and Fujikura Motore shaft. I need a softer tip shaft then the stock offerring on the R9.

Bottom line, the TaylorMade R9 driver is a great golf club that provides unprecendented amount of adjustability and customization quickly, and without the support of a tour van. If your a low-mid handicap golfer, who likes to fine tune their golf club, and wants a tour claiber flight trajectory, than checkout the R9 driver.

The TaylorMade R9 driver is available in 8.5, 9.5, and 10.5 (tested) degree lofts (9.5 and 10.5 left-handed), and in X, S, and R shaft flexes. MSRP $500

{ 11 comments… read them below or add one }

tim June 23, 2009 at 1:32 pm

I ordered an R9 from a clubfitter in Pennsylvania. I asked for a 73g White Board stiff at 45″, a shaft I have in 3 fairway woods. However, the R9 head with the 18g of moveable weight made the club too heavy for me. I noticed on line that several club fitters had said the R9 head is heavy. I had some TM weights from an old R7, and reduced the moveable weights in the R9 to 6 (heel), 1 (back) and 4(toe). Seven grams of weight may not sound like much, but it made a difference.
For several years I have been playing a straight tee shot with a miss being a fade, and bought my drivers to suit my swing. But now with the R9, I can move the ball both ways.
After a lot of experimenting (which was really fun), I found I could set up easily for a fade or a – relatively – straight tee shot. I settled on Neutral 1 degree closed to hit a draw (to suit one particular course I am playing regularly), and I can draw the ball most of the time. The White Board does not hook for me, so my miss tends to be straight or a fade. I have a smooth transition and smooth release – a quick tempo player may not get the same result from this combination. I would guess my dispersion range would be 15 to 20 yds on bad days, and 10 to 15 yds on good days.
Overall, I would estimate that my R9 combination is no longer than my other two drivers, but I can now shape tee shots with some confidence.

Mack July 31, 2009 at 4:53 pm

I just picked up the r9 and i am comfortable using it at neutral but i was wondering what the difference is compared to neutral upright

Rob July 31, 2009 at 6:02 pm

Hi Mack,
The difference is the lie angle is 1 degree upright as opposed to 1 degree flat in neutral. The face is square in both cases, but produces a higher ball flight and right to left movement of up to 10 yards.
In neutral the ball should go straight and not as high. This assumes your square at impact.

Enjoy the R9!
Rob

Mark January 5, 2010 at 7:20 pm

I have ordered the R9, form a christmas gift card, but I am reading some disturbing comments that the head actually come off of the shaft (please tell me that this a rare incident). Did I make a big mistake?

Rob January 5, 2010 at 8:16 pm

Mark,
You didn’t make a mistake. The head can only come off the shaft if you don’t properly tighten the head back on after you’ve made your adjustments.
Thanks
R

Cary Pfitzner January 6, 2010 at 10:08 pm

I have been looking at the new 2009 TaylorMade R9 in a 8.5 or 9.5 degree loft and with either a stiff or x-stiff shaft. What I am having trouble figuring out is that there appears to be three different moels of this driver. Can you explain to me the difference between the R9, R9-TP and R9-Max models and why a person would choose one over the other.

Thanks

Cary (located in North Carolina)

Doug January 6, 2010 at 10:40 pm

Mark-

I have searched the web for 3 nights and yet to find the answer to my question; is the Motore shaft “above average” in stiffness to a standard stiff shaft (i.e. Graffaloy Red or other stock stiff OEM shafts)? I am a 10 handicap with a swing speed of 100-110. I currently play the Burner with a stiff Graffaloy Pro-Launch Red that I hit pretty straight and average distance (265). How would that compare with the Motore shaft in stiff flex? Should I consider regular flex? Thanks…great work!!

Rob January 10, 2010 at 1:28 pm

Cary,
The R9 and R9TP both have adjustable face, lie,loft angle, and moveable weights technology. The main difference is the shaft, where there is a TP version of the various shafts.
The R9 MAX is the Japanese version of what is called the R9 460 in the United States. The R9 460 features only an adjustable face, lie, loft, angle. No Moveable weights, like in the R9 and R9 TP.

The difference between the R9, R9TP and R9 460, is you don’t have moveable weights in the 460. Also the R9 460 is a 460cc head vs 422cc head on the R9, R9 TP.

Why one over the other? This really depends on your game and what will work best for your swing. If you like the smaller 422cc head shape and also like the moveable weights to really fine tune the club. The R9 460 is for those who like the bigger 460cc head shape and don’t want to deal with the weights. It’s best to get fit for these drivers, to determine what would work best with your swing before running out and buying one in my opinion.

Good Luck
Rob

Jim Ristas January 31, 2010 at 9:18 am

Since the Motore shaft appears to be a bit stiffer than standard, I am thinking of puting in a Reax shaft in the R9. What is the difference between the Fujikara Reax 65 shaft and Aldila Reax 60 shaft? My swin speed is a modest 95 mph; which is better for me?

pete heid February 22, 2010 at 12:13 pm

I misplaced ( or lost ) the torque wrench for the head adjustment my Taylormade R9 driver anyone have one to sell or know where I can get another one ? Thanks ,pete

John Bell February 23, 2010 at 6:05 pm

There are a few on eBay but I use a T-25 star bit to loosen the adjustment bolt. If you have a inch-pound tourqe wrench, tighten to 40 inch-pounds. Be careful not to strip the threads.

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post: